Around the edge of Wales (7)....Hay on Wye to St Briavell

Around the Edge of Wales (7). . . Hay on Wye to St Briavell

If the skylarks were silent on the Clwydian Range they were certainly making their presence known as I climbed the slopes of the Black Mountains through early morning mist. The air quivered with the fast beat of their wings and their rapid chirping and along the roadside nuthatches wove their way between hazel trees.

I was glad to be walking , rather than embarking on a two day kayaking tour down the Wye as the only other group of campers were planning to do, The day had dawned grey and damp and the Wye looked fast and slightly treacherous below the Hay bridge. By mid morning, and with the climbing done, the sun was again beginning to seep through the clouds.

Cwm Ewyas. Is there a more beautiful valley in Wales, or anywhere else, come to that. Magnificent views at every turn and interesting historic buildings along its length. It was difficult to tear myself away but I was determined to get to the lower end of the Wye valley by nightfall.

The journey continued along tiny lanes between Abergavenny and Monmouth, passing places I never knew existed, such as the Cadw-managed  White Castle, Llandingoed village and the huge Bulmer’s orchard at Penrhos. From the main road along the lower Wye valley the road up to St Briavell from Brockweir is an end-of-day killer climb.

I’ve wanted to stay at the St Briavell youth hostel for years. It’s an old royal hunting lodge and the interior still retains the dark, oak panelled atmosphere of historic buildings. It’s usually full of schoolchildren but tonight there happened to be plenty of room. The only other company was an 8-person group of Land’s End-John O’Groats cyclists from Stockport who were raising money for a local hospice. We chatted until late over pots of tea in the kitchen.