Around the Edge of Wales (5).... Trefonnen to Clun

Around the Edge of Wales (5). . . Trefonnen to Clun

The beautiful, pastoral landscape around Llynclys is understandably peppered with anti-pylon posters. I followed the Montgomery canal from Carreghofa down towards Buttington then cycled into Welshpool for a plate of cheese sandwiches and chips in the Old Station café. I stayed there a while, watching busloads of elderly tourists arriving to wander around the mass of imported, synthetic clothes and tartan rugs which seems to have become part of the Welsh holiday experience.  Onwards to Montgomery, past Leighton with its interesting history as a model estate and then like a dart along the long straight Roman road that arrives into town beneath the castle.

Montgomery is a sweet town and hasn’t changed very much since I lived in the area, about 15 years ago. I was glad to see that Bunners’ ironmongers is still open, including the wall of ‘bits-‘n’-bobs’ wooden drawers behind the counter. I just had to stop at the Castle Kitchen for some tea and cake. This is one of best cafes I know. I sat outside in the sunny rear yard for a while, making a start on Julian Barnes’ ‘Sense of an Ending’ whilst my phone recharged, then headed off for Clun.

The climbs in this part of the Border country, where the lanes weave in and out of Wales through a long series of switchbacks, are gruelling. It was hard work and I could only manage some of the hills on foot, pushing the bike slowly, about ten steps as a time. The verges were beginning to look a bit more interesting but the land in this area has more or less been totally improved and the whole landscape, including the Kerry Ridgeway appeared to be a series of uniform bright green waves interspersed with bands of  oil-seed rape yellow and the occasional block of conifers. 

The ride into Clun was excellent and I decided to stay the night in the Clun Mill Youth Hostel. Although there were no spare beds left the crew of senior volunteers who were manning the hostel for the week were fantastic and made sure I had a roof over my head for the night. The building is a historic mill and full of character – and a lovely place to stay.  Thanks to everyone who was there – fellow hostellers and volunteers – for the kindness and contributions. I started my journey the following day armed with a gift of plum jam sandwiches from one of volunteers and with a definite feeling that I’d be back in Clun very soon.