Wednesday 1 August 2012

Around the Edge of Wales (2)....across the North Wales coast


Around the edge of Wales (2)….across the north Wales coast

A journey on two wheels today across the north Wales coast, to buy myself some time for the rest of the trip. I dusted down the old Peugot Camargue, gave it a lick of 3-in-1, and away we went. Perfect spring weather, and an interesting journey ahead. Negotiating the tunnel section of the A55 in Penmaenmawr was interesting and you couldn’t help but admire the investment made by Sustrans and others to find a safe route for cyclists along this built-up, shored-up expressway that seems to hug the cliff above the sea. I had to admire too the graffiti on the concrete walls below the A55 at Penmaenmawr. But the cell-like beach huts built into the underbelly of the A55 and staring out at a grey sea left me cold.





The highlight of the day’s journey perhaps was the fine track around Conway’s woodland nature reserve at Parc Bodlondeb. Only a five minute ride, but it winds below some fine oak trees, close to the shore, and gives you a stunning view of Conway castle in its harbour setting.  Along the walls of the path the pinkish-grey colours of the stonecrop, growing in soil pockets and hollows between the stones, were beautiful. The steep diversion up to the top of Old Colwyn, to avoid the shipwreck which is still being cleared away from the Llanddulas rocks, was frustrating, but the freewheel back down to the expressway was exhilarating, and a great way to see the huge quarries along this section of coast, including the gravel quarry which is still working – and which, from above, with its slightly Klondike appearance and intricate stone patterns, could almost be described as attractive.  


 

 
This isn’t the most beautiful section of the Welsh coast perhaps, but there are interesting things to see here if you look closely. I enjoyed watching the swallows skimming above the stream behind the beach at Abergele, the wheatears busily flitting about on the rock armouring at Pensarn and the sea holly leaves emerging like crinoline from the sand at Kinmel bay, in front of the huge static caravan parks. And I hadn’t known before about the tiny church, barely bigger than a hermit’s cell, on the promenade in Rhos on Sea.


 

But the most lasting impression perhaps is of people and dogs. Lots of them. Particularly the huddles of  track-suited men (always, strangely, with white vans or red cars) silently fishing for sole off the edges of the promenades, and of Tibetan terriers being walked – everywhere!

Back to Prestatyn tomorrow to start on the journey down along the Welsh borders, following Offa’s Dyke as best as I can. 

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